Monday, January 12, 2009



Buenos Aires is a gigantic city of over ten million people. People live in apartments that they own or rent. The old buildings were five to six stories and the newer buildings are much taller. All vary in shape and condition. Most have underground garages and a security officer at the door. On most blocks there are different shops: pastry, butcher, clothing, fruit and vegetable, snacks, launderias (laundry)as well as small cafes that are open all day and well into the night. The main avenues are lined with shops on both sides of the street. There is a large mall that we discovered last week which is a lot like malls in the US complete with a food court on the top floor. You don't see large department stores, hardware stores, Home Depot type anywhere, at least we haven't seen any in the heart of the city. Rather there are small little stores. In most cafes or at our house, breakfast consists of cafe or tea, orange juice and media lunas (small rolls)and is between 7am and 11am. Lunch is anywhere from noon to 2 or 2:30. Next is tea around 5-7pm. Dinner is not until 9pm at the earliest and for many is not until 10:30-11:30pm. A schedule that is a bit hard to get used to.

Last Saturday evening Paul and I arrived at a restaurant after 10:30 and certainly were not the last to arrive. People here are not in a hurry and they spend time sitting at the table at every meal. Waiters will not hurry you and will only bring the check when asked. It is a very friendly and relaxed atmosphere.

The streets are crowded with many taxis and buses that drive very rapidly. Pedestrians do not have the right of way and you must pay attention when crossing streets!! Also the sidewalks are of various quality and condition so it is important to watch where you are walking. (Some owners do not pick up after dogs which is another hazard) There are lots of people walking at all times. We have used the subway to get to school and have walked home each day (about 4 1/2 Kilometers).

Last weekend we ventured out into the very hot temperatures to explore only a small part of the historic center of Buenos Aires, Plaza de Mayo, surrounded by government buildings that remind you of the buildings you see in Paris and other European capitals. The square's central monument, the Piramide de Mayo, (in the picture) elebrates their independence from Spain on 25 May 1810. The large pink colored building on the end of the plaza is Casa Rosada. It is from here that Juan Peron, the former dictator, and his wife Eva (Evita) spoke to the massive crowds reported to be 300,000 and more of cheering citizens. We have only scratched the surface of the things to see here.

One week and a day of classes under our belt. Our profesora, Veronica Barbero (see picture), is very patient and a good teacher. She spent 2 years in New Jersey, as well as some time in Chapel Hill, NC and Aspen, CO!! Our classes are M-F from 2pm-6pm and are pretty intensive. We spent quite a bit of time on the "state of being verbs, ser and estar" because they each apply only to certain situations. Along the way there were numbers, foods, prepositions, adjectives of various sorts and lots of vocabulary. Our heads are spinning and Paul says his has a cloud.

At the end of next week we take an exam for placement in the next class. The school is a skinny 4-story building with class rooms on 4 floors. There is a terrace on top where special gatherings are held. Paul and I are the oldest students. I do believe that Paul has not missed all the cleavage and long legs on these young chicas. Students are from all over the world and are mostly in their 20s. Needless to say they are out until early morning partying with the natives while Paul and I are sleeping. Tomorrow we are going to a milonga with our class where we will begin tango lessons.